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Sabor: Finally, some Spanish sass by Very Kerri

/ Categories Student stories, Restaurant reviews / Author:

Sabor: Finally, some Spanish sass by Very Kerri

This week, Diploma student and food blogger Kerri McGunness heads over to tourist central to try out one of the hottest new restaurant openings of the year, Sabor. From the team that brought tapas to London in the shape of Barrafina.

Nieves Barragán Mohacho brought tapas to London and then went on to break the mould at Barrafina over the course of her 10 years as head chef. So it’s no surprise that her first solo spot Sabor is one of the hottest openings this year; and I’ve been busy getting to know it.

You’ll find it just off Regent Street on the tourist trodden route between Hamleys and Ice Bar; a lovely little safe house to have in your back pocket.

There are three parts to the restaurant. Upstairs you’ll find the bookable Asador, where you go to get seriously personal with suckling pig and a cracking list of big bold wines. Downstairs, a counter where you banter back and forth with the chefs awaits. There’s also a bar with a focus on Spanish Vermouth, handy given they don’t take reservations.

Whether you’re Asador-ing or counter-ing, the menu is refreshingly simple and doesn’t need laborious describing by one of the team… small pleasures, people. 

There’s something comforting when three out of four dishes are varying sizes of Segovian suckling pig. Not your thing? Don’t run a mile. Snacks are sumptuous, chips come four ways and daily specials are scrawled on boards, downstairs you don’t even need a menu as it’s all happening just in front of you.

Sabor’s tortilla is the best I’ve ever tried; pre-fried spuds all snuggled up in rich runny yolk. I could bang on about the other must-haves for days but Asador’s paprika-laced spin on Pulpo a la Gallega is perversely good. The prized suckling pig, with token trotter no less, is a real treat but even the smallest option needs three people on the signup sheet.

The hardest bit about eating at the counter is calling it a day. Treat yourself to all the usuals like Croquetas, Pa amb oli etc. as they're a step above. Arroz con Salmonete (like a baby snapper) is Paella for grown-ups.

Fish is lovingly grilled and flakes off the bone at the slightest encouragement. I’ve had various other bits on the side like the plate of black tomatoes with confit artichokes and chorizo-style sausage, which is still on my mind.

If you’re just two or three people, go to the counter and nail the lot. Otherwise, make a reservation (you know, like human beings used to do) and smash the Asador. Sabor is a winner, whatever your vibe. 

Five Very Kerri things about Sabor

  1. Seemingly simple bits nailed
  2. All the faves
  3. The bold wine list upstairs
  4. Spanish style in Mayfair
  5. Nieves Barragán Mohacho

What's your favourite restaurant? We'd love to hear about the places that you can rely on to wow your friends and family. 

If you have any recommendations, email them to marketing@leiths.com with "I love this restaurant!" in the subject line. We'll try to check them out and will thank you in our review!

Kerri McGuinness

Author: Kerri McGuinness


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