Salon: Footloose and faff-free by Very Kerri

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Salon: Footloose and faff-free by Very Kerri

Diploma student Kerri has another gem for us! Salon in Brixton delivers big flavours in a down to earth setting. Brace yourself for another truly hunger-inducing review...

Brixton cradles some of the most uniquely London things which give me that warm Ready-Brek-feeling. Like seeing peeps queue 45 mins for an Honest Burger, Shrub & Shutter’s mariachi-band-garnished cocktails, tasting menus in shipping containers, and revellers inhaling Crémant and Comté like both are going out of fashion - to name a few. And this is all on a Tuesday.

Anyway, tonight I’m headed to Salon; a safe-house from the market’s food trucks and fast food faves. With a deli, wine shop and restaurant all under one roof, it’s your one stop shop for a good time. The restaurant is ex-Brunswick House Nicholas Balfe’s first solo site, who’s known for championing best of British eats. It’s a daily changing chef’s menu vibe; at a refreshingly good price point to boot.

“The fact that it's taken me this long to step foot in the place is deplorable!”

A glistening dashi mushroom broth provides a very grown-up welcome, followed by a bone dry Brut Nature Collet fizz. Soon I’m suffering a serious case of food envy as Darty takes down ‘Nduja croquetas but solace swiftly comes to the rescue in the form of pumpkin dip –  more of the flaxseed dunkers, please!

A polite-looking pile of brill, kohlrabi and sesame is all a bit beige but a bowl of mussels in cider with a wedge of caramelised Savoy cabbage delivers bags of flavour. Cabbage is generally a big thing with Balfe’s eats and he does it proper justice in this case. Salt marsh lamb keeps the husband quiet whilst I’m just as happy with the accompanying just-charred broccoli snuggled in lashings of buttery bagna càuda.

As a general fan of nuts on everything, I am seriously in favour of the cracked black pepper roasted apple pud with toasted buckwheat and another one of those flaxseed crackers. The dark choc salted caramel send offs which follow are just downright naughty. Balfe has been changing the game at Salon since 2012; and the fact that it’s taken me this long to step foot in the place is deplorable. Clearly, I have a lot of making up to do and I’m pleased I started tonight.

Five Very Kerri things about Salon

  1. Provenance, provenance, provenance 
  2. Tasting menu on a shoestring 
  3. Seasonal veggie heroes 
  4. Nuts on everything 
  5. Brixtonnn


By Kerri McGuinness

Visit Verykerri.com | Twitter @Kerrimcguinness Instagram @Kerrimcguinness

Learn more about Ella Canta here: www.ellacanta.com

Kerri McGuinness

Author: Kerri McGuinness

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